The centrepiece of the quarry providing some of the best wall pitches on sandstone.
1. Loctite (7b) * desperate fingery climbing on the edges low down. No coming in from the side.
2. Land of the Dinosaurs E3 5c * almost situ-gear crack but a Friend 2 is useful. Harder than it looks and a notable cleaning achievement in its day.
3. Momentary Lapse of Reason 7b+ ** superb sustained climbing of the typically fingery nature sandstone lends itself to. Finish at the last BR, not the BB.
4. Rattle Those Tusks E3 5c * more classic-style crack climbing. Some nuts and Friends needed.
5. Mad at the Sun (7c) *** the hardest route on sandstone to date. And look at the date! Fingery, sustained and technical.
6. Unnamed (6c) * shallow groove and short headwall above start of 'Sun'.
7. Bear Running, Salmon Cunning (7a) ** right-hand side of arete to slab. Difficult finish on the headwall.
8. Anything You Can Do (7b) ** excellent open wall climbing. A blind and fingery crux with an airy headwall above.
9. Encore Magnifique (7b+) *** the sandstone classic of its grade. Sustained more than technical and maybe only 7b. But you can keep it at 7b+ for now.
10. Another Pleasant Valley Sunday (7a+) ** typical of the wall: steep and fingery but with an unusual crossover crux. Now started direct.