|Peak District||Chee Dale||Clwyd Limestone||S.Wales Sandstone||S.Wales Limestone||The Gower||Ban-Y-Gor|
Taffs Well North Wall
A very fine wall
that has suffered the ignominy of misuse. Compact, technical face climbing
abounds and all the routes are worthwhile. Can suffer dampness after rain
and in humidity.
1. Squeeze for Cream (4+) the pale streak on the left
2. The Creaming Dream
(6c) a good intro to the wall. Slabby and technical
3. Ice Cream Sunday
(7a+) * very technical climbing with a stubborn finish. Hard.
4. Scream for Cream (7a+) * thin and technical at the start, quite vicious really. Needs rebolting.
5. GLC Safeasfuck
(7b) ** vague line from inset corner low down
6. Trailblazer (7b)
** in many ways the route of the wall. Sustained and technical with a
difficult rightwards finish.
7. Sink or Swim (7a+)
** sustained and airy climbing with a blind finish. Gold BRs.
8. Security Plus (7b) * strenuous climbing on undercut holds. An easy start but difficult and complicated above.
9. Give it Some Belly
(7b)new line with a desperate crux through the bulge and awkward finale.
10. Norman Normal
(7a) * bold start and
hard finish. Just merits a French grade, worthwhile all the same. To be rebolted.
Norman was never nothing more than normal!
11. Give it Some Wellie (6c) shallow scoop/groove above overlap to belay.
12. All's Well (6b)
* the warm up for the wall giving a very pleasant pitch.
13. The Bitter End (6b+) squeezed in onto the end of the wall. A tough crux.
14. Adam Hussein's
An (6b) rightmost line of wall gained from mossy slab.
Taffy Duck (6c) * the diagonal crackline across the wall starting from All's Well
Industrial Salvage (5+) mossy Slab
2. Sustainable Development (5+) pleasant face to steep finale.
2. Landfill Tax (6a) short face to lower off on 19.
3. Knackers Yard (6b+) right again finishing up crack. Needs regearing.
4. Wrecker's Ball (6a) Finishes atop the large block
5, Rag and Bone (6b) pleasant face and steep finale.
6. Any Old Iron (6c) pleasant face to steep finale.
7. Full Metal Jacket (6b) steep finale to finish at ledge.
8. Tinker's Dog (6a) the left-hand route is pleasantly sustained
Faster Pussycat (5+) from a tree stump climb past a ledge and up a leaning wall.
Honeysuckle Supreme (5) the line of huge bolts
Affluence (5+) leftmost of lines over easier ground
Clarts Free Taxi Ride to Visit Madam Hussein (5) diagonal line clipping every bolt imaginable