Taffs Well Main

Gary Gibson on Wet Afternoon (7b+), Taffs Well Right.

A big brooding cliff with the easiest of access just waiting for some rejuvenation in the form of rebolting and new route activity. The problem about this is the effort required to do it but once achieved this will doubtless become a popular cliff, something which it never has been!

At this moment in time there are a number of good routes, described fully in the topo, the original ones from Martin Crocker and more latterly an excellent pair from Gary Gibson but this undoubtedly remains one for the future.

What’s the climbing like?

All of the routes give vertical or just off vertical wall climbing with technical and sustained climbing on little edges and layaways throughout. Some of the rock is akin to solid weetabix but the with the size of the bolts don’t let this put you off.

When should I climb there?

The cliff gets the sun in the afternoon which usually dries off the majority of damp patches. Seepage lines on Wet Afternoon last until about June but relatively speaking the cliff takes little other seepage. Due to the busy road weekends and summer evenings are the best bet.


6c+ (1), 7a (1), 7b (1), 7b+ (2). Only 5 routes but with many more to come!

Which are the choice routes?

The pairing of Daggers (6c+ *) and Look Over Yonder (7a *) are worthwhile and have been joined by the immaculate Wet Afternoon (7b **) to the right. Above lie Scram (7b *) and to its left the magnificent Sugar Bullets (7b+ **). On the latter routes don’t be put off by the 5m weetabix section at the start.

Goi Ashmore leading Ghengis Khan (6c), Calcite Wall. Photo Gary Gibson