Peak District Chee Dale Clwyd Limestone S.Wales Sandstone S.Wales Limestone The Gower Ban-Y-Gor

New Tredegar

This small quarry, on the outskirts of New Tredegar and is has very easy access and a number of good, slabby face climbs. These get the sun from about 11am onwards, dry very quickly and provide an ideal sprin or autumn venue or a perfect summer evening place to climb. The routes still need a bit more traffic.

Approaches:

Take the main A469 south from the 'Heads of the Valley' road or north from Bargoed into New Tredegar. Turn into New Tredegar and follow the A4049 south and then take the first left after goind past the Winding Museum. Turn immediately right onto Upper Road and follow this for 400m to where it narrows: park here. Walk up the hill for 400m and the quarry is on the left.

On the left-hand wall of the quarry is a small wall with an obvious jamming crack: Dog Leg Crack VS 5a jamming to a bolt belay; Bryophytes Choked my Crack VS 4c is the crack to its right; Forbidden Crack HS 4b is the earth-filled crack and Whiipersnappers (6b+) is the wall right again.

1. Taken to the Cleaners (5) the leftmost line via ledges to a shallow groove

2. Clean Sweep(5+) better to the right with a tough start and obvious blunt rib

3. Cleaned Out (6a) the slab to gain a belay above the overlap

4. Clean me up Scotty (5+) * easy wall and pleasant arete to shallow finishing groove

5. Spanish Eyes (6b+) * easy wall to the right with a crux bulge and good finale

6. Eager Beaver (6c) branches left and via slab to a fingery finale on the headwall.

7. Account Holder (6c) * better to the right with a hard final move

8. Tread Careful (6b+) * the pleasant slab and fine blunt rib/shallow groove above

9. Tread Eager (6a+) * very nice climbing via a prominent flake and thin crack

10. In Heaven She Walks (6a+) * the best route here via an excellent slab

11. Tread Foot (6b+) starts from a ledge and takes the left-hand line to a crux finale

12. Tread Soft (6b+) more sustained to the right but still with a hard finish

13. Slimline (4) the long slim arete to the right.