This small quarry is situated overlooking the village of Lewistown in Ogwen
Vale. It has a handful of average routes
Leave the M4 at J36 and follow the A4061 to Lewistown passing first through
Bryncethin and finally Blackmill. A recently restored housing estate will
be seen on the left and at the national speed limit road sign take a sharp
left-hand turning. Continue steeply uphill, bear right at the first fork,
then right again to a rough track. Follow the rough track for 200m and park
on the left. Walk 100 m up a grassy bank to gain the quarry and do not leave
valuables in the car!
The landowner, Steve Blackwell, asks that you seek his permission to climb
on the crag. His farm is 400m further up from the parking place. He will ask
you to write a disclaimer that any accidents that happen are the climber's
own fault. Not doing so will jeopardize access in the future or you may also
meet a very disgruntled landowner!
1. Disclaimer (4+) the groove and ledgy face above. More fun when
'gopping' as per the first ascent!
2. Chokin' the Chicken (6a+) the first line right of the clim groove.
3. Five Knuckle Shuffle (6a+) a tricky start just right, then rightwards
to the belay
4. Being Butch (6b+) * the centre of the face with a tricky start
5. Kleenex Man (6a+) a tough start just right then easier above
6. Graffititi (5+) the first crackline right of the arete
7. Misspent Youth (6a) the second crack with a hard finish
8. Youthenasia (5+) short wall and hard finish
9. Hold up there Youth! (5+) a hard finish again.