Peak District Chee Dale Clwyd Limestone S.Wales Sandstone S.Wales Limestone The Gower Ban-Y-Gor

Gilwern Central Station

A new section of crag in the central area of quarries beyond Gilwern main. It has ten routes all in the lower grades with a quick drying nature and generally good rock.

Access is fairly straightforward: take the turning by the pond and follow the road until 400m past the Lamb and Flag pub and park on the right where two tracks lead off towards the aerial. Take the right-hand track and after about 800m and after passing three blocks on the path the quarry will be seen on the left. There are two tiers.

1 Lost Credentials (4) a straightforward wall with one awkward step up move

2 No Credentials (5) better to the right via a vague rib to the same belay

3 Name not known (5+) a very short route past two bolts

4 Name not known (5) left-hand of two pleasant lines to shared belay

5 Name not known (5) right-hand line on good rock

6 Out of Bulk (4) easier line to the right with good rock

7 Name not known (5) left-hand line of two left of sharp arete

8 Name not known (6a) the arete in a very good position

9 Name not known (5) the pleasant wall around to the right

10 My Timeline (5+) the left-hand line on the wall with a hard move to and past the second bolt

11 Name not known (5+) very pleasant climbing to the right

12 Timeliness (5) pleasant enough to the right with a tricky central section

13 Name not known (6a) left-hand of two lines on the upper tier is very worthwhile

14 Name not known (?) right-hand line but does not appear to have been finishing due to missing hangers.

15 Name not known (5)

16 Name not known (5) left-hand of two very pleasant line

17 Name not known (5) right-hand line

18 Saving Obscurity (5) left-hand of two routes to the right

19 Lost Obscurity (5) right-hand line