Peak District Chee Dale Clwyd Limestone S.Wales Sandstone S.Wales Limestone The Gower Ban-Y-Gor

Abbey Buttress

Although this cliff was one of the first sandstone cliffs to be developed, which makes it a little before the advent of true sports climbing, this is a very pleasant venue with some excellent pitches on very compact sandstone. The outlook over the Port Talbot steel works is also very impressive and makes it a very welcome venue on a summer evening or when combined with one of the other crags.

The routes themselves take, in general, very natural crack lines and require a normal rack of wires and small Friends. A few short sport routes have inevitably sprung up here but the crag has recently acquired a surfeit of lower-off bolts which make the cliff top stakes redundant. It takes very little seepage, can be exposed in high winds and receives the sun after 12 Noon.

Approaches:

This is relatively easy. Leave the M4 at junction 38 and follow the A48 through Margam towards port Talbot. 2 miles after leaving the M4, turn right just after the Somerset Arms (opposite the Old Surgery) and go up Incline road. Pass under the bridge to two cottages and park. Take the track just left of the cottages and then contour right and up to the quarry, clearly guarded by a large fence.