The Left Celestial Twin
This is a superb, neglected crag in the heart of the dale, some way upstream of Dovedale. It's westerly nature, excellent rock and sunny aspect give it a very pleasant feel and there a wealth of excellent traditional climbs.
Take the road from Hartington westwards towards Warslow and after a mile a left turn on the left will be seen, signposted Beresford Dale - this is just before the river bridge in the village of Hume by the Manifold Pub. Follow the road all the way to its end at a river crossing complete with footbridge and stepping stones. Park here taking into consideration other road users. Cross the bridge and head downstream to find the crag on the left in five or so minutes.
1. Socrates E2 5c climbs the short barrel-shaped wall to a recess below the overlapped wall above. This gives a climactic finale
2. Pollux E1 5b takes the left-hand of two shallow groove to an alcove. A right-leaning groove gives a steep finale, peg
3. Possession in 90% of the Law E3 5c * takes the shallow right-hand groove and the steep leaning white wall above to reach the finish of Pollux
4. A Man Possessed E3 5c ** an excellent route. Climb the thin crack and bulge to the second of two breaks. Tricky moves right here lead to a steep and somewhat frantic finale. The mean direct finish is: Strangely Possessed E5 6c *
5. The Man they Love to Hate E4 6a ** takes the series of flakes 2m left of the cave to the break. Difficult moves on two undercuts leads to the next break, thread, where an exit on some pockets proves hard.
6. For Ever and Ever E5 6b * something of a hybrid. Climb the blackened wall above the cave to join the last route and its wall to gain the break, thread. Swing up and left to finish up A Man Possessed.
7. Fingerdrive E3 6a ** move up right from the cave, thread, then back left and up to the break. Climb the wall above to a break, thread, and tricky finale via a shallow scoop.
8. Castor E1 5b * Move and right from the cave past a thread to a break. Pull over the bulge and up via a shallow groove to a hole complete with nest. Pull up right and over the bulge to a ledge and finishing crack.
9. Cronus E1 5b ** a superb find. Climb the wall 5m right of the cave via a slab and slight bulge to a break. Pull up and over, peg, and up via a series of flakes to a ledge and large block. Finish via the fine hanging arete above.
Situated 1.5km down the dale from the Left Celestial twin, this excellent little offering lies on the opposite bank and is gained in a 20 minute walk and a quick paddle across the river. Please be considerate to fisherman if present.
1. Jerry Moffatt Stole My Face E2 5b climbs the dirty face at the left-hand side of the crag. Good if clean
2. Gordian HVS 5a the high square-cut corner, right of a poorer groove, gained direct. Needs cleaning.
3. Dutch Sunday HVS 5a a better route via a crack right of a prominent hanging rib, gained direct. Needs cleaning.
4. Kuragin E3 6a ** a super new pitch climbing the wall via a ledge, thread, and pocketed wall to the break. Move left past a thread and up the excellent final tower. BB.
5. War E2 5c ** the old classic. Climb the shallow groove, thread and wall with good holds to the break. Move left to a thread and up into the prominent groove line which has a few grassy tufts in it.
6. North Winds E2 5c *** a brilliant find. From the break on War, thread, climbs direct up the superb wall. A future classic. BB.
7. Perlusive E1 5b Start as for War but trend rightwards via a shallow groove past two pegs to a vegetated area. Continue rightwards through this to the top. Needs cleaning and would be worth a star at least.
8. Blow all Away E4 6a * the grey wall to the right via some bold moves low down leads, PR and TR, past a break, PR, and wall rightwards to a bolt belay before the veg takes over
9. Nettlefish E5 6b * The fine grey walls to the right with technical moves past a bolt to a break, old peg. The upper wall and shallow groove just right is easier but no pushover. Needs a bolt belay
10. War E1 5b a bold series of moves rightwards past an old ring peg leads to good holds. Finish via the groove on the right. Needs cleaning
11. Muninn E5 6a* a fine wall pitch via bold moves to the right gain a faint thin crack, peg. The upper section above the break, thread, is easier via a better crackline.
12. Flame E2 5b climb the flake in the wall left of the obvious corner and move left and up the rib via a flake. Move left and past a break to easier climbing above.
13. Huginn E3 6a * from part way up the flake climb the bold feeling wall/rib to reach the break, thread. A very long move and some intricacies gain better holds leading to the top.
14. Gourd HVS 5a the cleaned corner line gained direct by a short technical section
15. Death Croak E1 5c the thin crack in the right wall of the groove. Quite bold low down.