Peak District Chee Dale Clwyd Limestone S.Wales Sandstone S.Wales Limestone The Gower Ban-Y-Gor

WCJ – Swamp Wall

Introduction:

A couple of newly developed walls with a handful of routes. The first has overhanging power problems and takes a while to dry whilst the second wall has open face climbs close to the river and dries more quickly.

Access:

A little tricky. From Cressbrook Mill, go through the mill to the weir and cross the bridge before Rubicon Wall wall. After a few rock steps, turn right and follow the path above the cliffs, over a fence after 5 minutes and down onto the railway track. Follow this and just before the next tunnel pass to its right and follow a path down, heading towards the Cornice. The first wall with five routes is immediately evident; The second wall is just below and the third further down and around the corner at the water's edge.

1. Dappled (4) short route on left

2. Hombre (5+) left side of wall with short tricky section

3. Condom Nations (6b) * centre of wall on good rock with a short tricky section

4. Land Nodule (6a+) right-hand of trio with a good and somewhat bling sequence

5. King Kane (5) the bulge and thin crack

6. Friday Club (6a+) *right-hand side of wall is very pleasant

7. Anyday Club (6a) the right-most route with a tricky finale

1. Spiralling Out (6b+) a short undercut wall leads to a ledge. The upper wall is furnished with good holds and a span right to the belay

2. The Power Grab (7a+) * a short wall and groove to a ledge. The upper wall has a very problematic finish on hidden holds.

3. Yard Sale (7a+) * a straightforward start to a ledge and then a very bouldery bulge above.

4. Helter Skelter (6c+) * a steep and fingery start to a ledge then a series of big pulls through the bulges onto a flake. Good climbing

The wall down and around to the right gives three short technical routes.

1. Margins of my Mind (6b+) the leftmost line via a shallow groove line.

2. Swamp Fever (7a+) a desperate little sequence to the right.

3. Tsetse Piece (7a+) more of the same right again

4. Gnat Attack (7a) intense little test piece just right to a shared belay

5. One Greenbottle (7a+) * very difficult but short section on the line to the right to a shared belay

6. Bluebottle Life (6c) * leftwards line with a tough start past the first bolt and slightly easier climbing above.