Peak District Chee Dale Clwyd Limestone S.Wales Sandstone S.Wales Limestone The Gower Ban-Y-Gor

WCJ – Rubicon Wall

Access:

This infamous bouldering venue lies at the southern end of Water-cum-Jolly and is gained by parking by Cressbrook Mill and following the path through the old mill (now flats) to the weir below the lake. Cross the small footbridge to reach the main area of sport climbing. NB: please be careful and considerate with your language as this is a popular fishing and walking area and any inappropriate actions could cause access problems for the future.

1. Alimony (7b+) * short boulder problem bulge with a desperately fingery headwall.

2. Project the problematic lower bulge

3. Honeymoon Blues E5 6b ** classic from the Eighties with desperate lower bulge and fingery finale. The thread seems to be getting longer!

4. Salar (8a) * heinously fingery bulge, easier for the tall.

5. Slapin (7c) rightwards exit via the bulge. Desperately bouldery.

6. Slapdasher (7a) again fingery but more pleasant.

7. Welsh Rarebit (6c) tough if you stay on line but most don't.

8. The Brer Faced Cheek of It (6a+) short but worth it just for the name?

1. Hare E3 5c wanders up the left-hand side of the face and needs cleaning

2. Changing Fortunes E4 6b a solitary peg to the right marks the line.

3. Chairs Missing E3 6b * the bouldery low bulge provides the meat of the route.

4. A Tall Story E5 6c * hideous climbing to the right requires a mega reach.

5. Dragonflight E3 5c ** a super pitch vi the flake and thin slab to finish via a flake.

6. Jezebel E5 6a ** very thin climbing via the face to the right past a protruding bolt. Finish right via a faint flake.

7. Kingfisher E5 6c ** a desperately fingery experience to the right. Use the bolt on Jezebel for protection.

8. Jaws E5 6b ** a beautiful classic of its grade to the right via an obvious peg.

9. Plectrum Maxilla Direct E7 6c *

1. Barracuda (8b) a rightwards line across the wall.

2. Caviar (8a+) ** a classic of its genre with a very bouldery sequence.

3. Beluga (8a+) * the tough wall to the right.

4. Eugenics (8b+) a desperate affair especially since the loss of holds.

5. Let the Tribe Increase (8a) * a short, hard and very problematic route.

6. The Dangerous Brothers (8a) more 'crimp-nasty' climbing.

7. Too Old to be Bold (7c) very, very polished.

8. Coot E4 6a * a classic taste of bold wall climbing on creaking flakes. Needs some TLC.

9. Piranha E6 6b ** classic frightener wall climbing via a short, sharp left-facing flake.

10. Cora E6 6c the epitome of desperation, not repeated since the loss of a small flake.

11. White Bait E5 6c ** a classic boulder problem from the shot holes extended into a route.

12. Flake Out, Shake Out E4 6c the hard wall to the right.

13. The Miller's Tale E5 6b ** classic problem via the big hole.

14. Hot Fun Closing (8a) * a mean route extending the classic Kudos (Font 7b) boulder problem.

The Terror of the Seven Seas (7c) the wall and bulge left of Professor Kirk

1. Professor Kirk (7b) desperately fingery climbing above the bulge.

2. First and Foresmost (6c) hard moves through the final bulge. Award yourself an extra grade or two it you are short.

3. Last but not Least (7a) * a good problem with the hardest moves through/above the top bulge.

4. Trunk of Punk (7a+) a desperate rightwards exit.

5. Sperm Worm E5 6a a short bold sequence above a peg.

6. Dumb Animal E5 6a * a series of layaways leading rightwards from the ledge, 3PRs

7. The Pinch Test (7c+) * very bouldery climbing leftwards from part way up the Angler

8. The Angler E6 6c * one of the hardest moves on the wall and protected by pegs finishing via flakes

9. The Wimp (7c) a leftwards exit from the Sissy to join the Angler

10. The Sissy (8a) * desperately fingery climbing on 'knife-edge holds from just below mid-height

11. Zeke the Freak (8b) ** the leaning wall to the right provides a masterpiece of difficulty.

12. The Bastard (8c+) * the bulges to the right prove even nastier

13. Truly Awesome (7a+) * the left-hand side of the roofs to the right with a definite crux sequence

14. Rubicon (7a) ** the impressive roof via the obvious crack. Jugs and long pulls. Bring your muscles.

15. Zeitgeist (7b) * no quite so fine to the right and tough through the bulges

16. The Bomb is Coming (7a) * maybe not quite a sport route but close enough through a prominent niche

17. Project the bulge to the right with a bit of 'yarding'

18. Small but Perfectly Formed (7a+) the micro route to the right to a jug above the belay bolt.