Peak District Chee Dale Clwyd Limestone S.Wales Sandstone S.Wales Limestone The Gower Ban-Y-Gor

WCJ – Moat Buttress

An excellent wall since the regearing has taken place. It provides a number of good wall test-pieces with the odd bulge thrown in for good measure. It takes very little seepage, can stay dry in light rain depending on the wind direction. It also faces north and is an ideal hot weather venue.

Access:

From the southern end of Water-cum-Jolly, follow the path through Cressbrook Mill until just before Rubicon Wall. Cross the bridge at the foot of the pool, go through a gate and up a series of rock steps. Once atop these, turn immediately right and follow the cliff-top path for approximately five minutes until it descends just after crossing a fence. Twenty metres after crossing the fence, take a path that drops down abruptly until below the line of cliffs - as for Majorca Buttress and Crunch Buttress. Follow this back rightwards to the waters edge and Moat Buttress.

1. Drawbridge Down When the Levee breaks (7c) * a shallow groove where the land meets the lake leads leftwards - out of Excalibur - via a fingery crux.

2. Excalibur E6 6b ** a classic of its era, the impressive flake system protected by a number of old pegs.

3. No Mud, No Thud (7b+) ** a superb pitch trending rightwards via a shallow groove line right of Excalibur via a powerful bulge.

4. 4. A Bigger Thud (7c) * the short difficult groove (7a) leads to a step left and difficult wall above.

5. Let the Tripe Increase (7c) ** the logical direct version of the groove with a tough crux bulge and steep wall.

6. All Hands to the Pump (7c+) a short groove leads to a belay ledge. The wall above is mean and very fingery.

7. Moatorhead (7b+) * a good sustained wall pitch with a welcome rest ledge.

8. Coming up for Air (7c) a tough pitch that seems to veer to close to the next route.

9. Moat People (7b+) ** a sustained and excellent wall pitch with difficulties until almost the last move.

10. Afloat in the Moat (6c+) ** the warm up! the right-hand line via a faint groove and slab leading leftwards.

11. Piranha Wall E2 5c an old unused trad. route. Needs cleaning.

12. Triton E3 5c another trad. route via the shallow groove.

13. Two Sheep to Leicester (7a+) * 14. Searching for the Yeti (7b+) *

1. Two Sheep to Leicester (7a+) * leftwards through the hollow bulge onto the fingery white wall.

2. Searching for the Yeti (7b+) * the direct line above the start of Two Sheep gives a tough test piece.

3. Moat Wall E5 6c desperate through the lower bulge, only easier once in the groove.

4. Moat Race (6c+) * the tough and fingery bulge now rebolted and worthwhile.

5. Moat Puddings (6c) another worthwhile bulge only shorter.

6. Castle Pudding E3 6a the bulge just left of the tree and littered with pegs.