A once popular venue adequately described by name. The Nook is a very small cliff with a big impact consisting of a very big roof, most suitable to those who have spent the entire winter in their cellar.
The cliff has now been cleaned up and in its best state for some years with a handful of new routes and reboltings.
1. The Dukes of Earl (Grey) 7c the leftmost bolted route requires careful placement of the feet.
2. Michael Foot Jam (7c+) ** the left side of the main 'prow' roof gives the Nook's best climb. The key is in the name.
3. A Cure for Foot Jams (7b+) ** rightwards out of Foot Jam into the upper part f Arapiles
4. A Cure for Arapiles (7b) * links leftwards out of the new 7a+.
5. Kalymnos 8a (7a+) * a new link from Arapiles into Santiano.
6. Santiano (7a+) ** the original free route taking a slightly leftwards line to the lip of the prow. now rebolted
7. A Mighty Wind (7b+) * direct line through the steps left of Rock Umbrella.
8. Rock Umbrella (7b) A superb roof technicians effort. The centre of the flat roof with stacked PRs. Hold have shed and it may not now be possible.
9. The Storm (7b+) * Another renowned test-piece with 2BRs and a leap of faith from the lip to descend.
10. A Bit of Nooky (8a) * Very leaning initial wall to desperate moves to better holds and another hard move above.
The Lockless Monster (8a) **The best route of the trio with desperate moves to crux the roof.
Theoria (8a+) * A true cellar dwellers problem just left of the tree close to the crag. The start is hideous, above marginally less so.
There's Life in the Old Log Yet (7c) * the desperate wall and tiny groove just right of the tree.