Peak District Chee Dale Clwyd Limestone S.Wales Sandstone S.Wales Limestone The Gower Ban-Y-Gor

Staden Quarry – Charas Wall


1. The Stig E2 5c pleasant face climbing via a thin crack from the left-hand side of the alcove.

2. Stig of the Dump E1 5a the thin crack from the right-hand side of the alcove and a short bold wall. Easier above the ledge.

Emblem Embargo HVS 5a left-hand of two thin cracks in sidewall to headwall above obvious niche.

Somebody's Trademark (HVS 5a) the right-hand thin crack to a ledge. Finish by moving right and up via cleaner rock above.

3. Silent Manoeuvres E4 5c * the right-hand side of the left arete of the wall gives superb technical moves with no gear but, unfortunately, the possibility for escape.

4. Telescopic Demand E4 6a * Excellent technical climbing via the faint thin crackline 5m right of the arete uses a side runner off right and a very long reach. Finish more easily above. Can be gained from the right at E3

5. Swan Song E1 5b * the vague right-trending rampline and a faint crack above leads to the TD finish.

6. Bicycle Repair Man E1 5b ** the classic of the slab. Tackle the obvious thin crack, difficult, to gain the face proper and a small ledge. Trend slightly leftwards and up to finish via an obvious short wide crack.

7. Top Gear E5 6b a devious eliminate with some good and very bold climbing: particularly bold at the start and hard from leaving BRM.

8. Charas HVS 5b * the thin central crackline of the slab. The battle with the tree is awkward and the central section of the crack difficult.

9. Mozaic Piece E4 5c * moves right out of Charas above the tree to climb the unprotected face. Even more unprotected is the direct start at E4 5c.

10. Wipe Out E2 5b *a faint crack above a ledge leads to holds trending leftwards into a tiny groove and bold moves soon easing. The direct start makes it E4 5c.

11. Paraplege E3 5c ** From the start of Wipe Out continue straight up the slab via a thin crackline to a hollow finish on the headwall.

12. Amaratarusa VS 4c The slim corner line bounding the right-hand side of the wall with the small overlap providing the difficulties.

13. Titanic Reaction HVS 5a the cracks in the obvious tower give a good route when clean.

14. Insidious Iceberg VS 4c wide crack and corner above.

15. Down She Goes E3 5c the right arete, bold, and easier cracks above.