A superb crag in the northern end of Dovedale has had a number of sports routes added to it on the fringes of the crag. These are all well worthwhile and do not impact on the existing routes which have all been cleaned up. This is an ideal crag in warm weather as the sun goes off it from 11am and a gentle breeze normally flows through the valley.
From the parking at Mill Dale, walk down the road towards the river and after 200m take a right turn, marked public footpath. In 50m turn left and follow the track onto the brow of the hill - this point can also be reached via the steps alongside the toilet block by the bridge over the river. Pass through a gate and follow the path, staying high round a fallen tree and pass through a wooded section. On exiting this you can see the crag in the distance in front of you. Continue via three stiles down to the river and then back up to the crag: an easy 20 minutes walk.
1. Ohm Alone (6b) the left-hand of two short sports routes. Lovely moves, perhaps low in the grade.
2. Ohm from Ohm(6a+) the right-hand line is much easier
A. Project () 3. Tennessee Waltz E1 5a, 5b * a thin tricky crack leads to a belay on the ramp. Move left and through the bulges via a groove, peg, moving left to a grassy exit.
4. Southern Rib E1 5b, 5b ** Superb. Climb the prominent twisting crack to the belay afoot the ramp. Continue via the ramp and crack system to a tree belay equipped with abseil ring.
5. The Temptress E5 6a ** climbs the vague scoop line starting from the crack via a series of tricky bulges equipped with some old peg runners. Excellent.
6. McTrad E5 6b an oddball route branching left from left-hand Route via some hard moves.
7. Left-hand Route E1 5b, 4b ** one of the classics of the crag. The obvious crackline in the back of the groove. Most abseil from the in-situ belay but you can finish up the corner and leftwards over vegetation.
8. Deltoid Shuffle E4 5c ** The fine wall to the right is bold despite having an in-situ peg and thread runner.
9. Gastrocnemius Rex E6 6b * the even bolder wall to the right has a single bolt runner.
10. Raven E2 5c, 5b * the fine thin crack to the right (recently recleaned) moving over a bulge to a belay. The groove above above leads to moves right and the obvious finish over easier but grassy ground.
11. Brown's Blunder VS 4c, 4b the obvious ramp-line across the face with an in-situ belay. The finale is a little grassy.
12. Aquarius E2 5c ** a superb route launching into the thin crackline above Brown's Blunder in one super pitch.
13. Central Wall E3 5c, 5b * the next thin crackline to the right is much tougher but gains a belay on the edge of the large ivy patch. The fine hanging groove on the left is over all too quickly.
14. Bus Pass Buttress E4 6a * a fine new route via the prominent pillar buttress on the left edge of the good rock to the right. Easy climbing leads to a grassy ledge. The short tricky wall, peg, leads onto easier climbing before steep moves above a diagonal break lead to the top.
15. Venery HVS 4b, 5a ** the classic left-hand crackline can be done in one pitch but is best done with a one-third height belay. Recently recleaned.
16. Project (??) the slim wall between the two cracklines provides a meaty pitch with a number of in-situ peg runners. Good.
17. Parrot Face HVS 4b, 5a * the right-hand crackline isn't quite as fine as its neighbour but deserves attention all the same.
18. Paperback Road (6c+) * a A. Project () difficult initial wall leads onto a slab with easier moves. Excellent technical sequence low down.
Pistols at Dawn (??)
19. Psalm 51 (6c) * a very pleasant route climbing leftwards up the slab with tricky moves through a steepening and an easier finish.
20. Loretta (6b) an easier lower wall leads to a steep and unobvious finale. Some poor rock.
21. Dancing Days (6b) a short wall and slab leads to a steep arete and tricky finish
B. Project ()
22. Pistol Blues (6c+) * good climbing on the lower compact wall leads to an easing in angle. The scoop to the right provides the finish.
23. Tendonitis Sucks (7a) * a powerful little problem with a hard start followed big moves on crimps and undercuts from the third bolt.
24. D. Whippet (??) Hammerhead Blues (6b+) the steep crack at the right-hand side of the face. Grim