A new crag has been developed in the quarry above Castleton. It gives around 20 routes, mostly in the lower grades in a tranquil setting but with the usual quarry provisos: it still relatively new and may still be a little dusty or fragile.
There are a batch of walls, all facing north west and getting little sunshine except in an evening. They dry reasonably quickly but some routes do take seepage in winter.
This is a little tricky. From the Tideswell crossroads on the A623 turn right when coming from Stoney Middleton and turn immediately left in front of the Anchor public house. Follow this road through a dip and take a left turn at a very prominent blue sign. Continue around in a large loop, there is a large active quarry on your right, and down the hillside until a right turn down a dirt track can be seen opposite a 'reservation' area (it is exactly 5 miles from the Anchor pub to this point). Park at the end of the track (200m) and descend the rocky track on the left into the quarry in 5 minutes - this is a very popular mountain bike track.
No access has been granted so if asked to leave please do so courteously.
Lower Tier - The Pinnacle
This is situated at the far left-hand end of the quarry:
1. Won't get Fooled Again (7a+)* the left-hand side of the arete with a sneaky finish using holds on the right.
2. Pindale Wizard (6c+) * the excellent right-hand side of the arete with a stopper finish.
3. Deaf, Dumb and Blind Kid (5+) the thin juggy crack on the right-hand side wall.
4. Substitute (6a) branches off right onto a ramp.
Lower Tier - Pinstripe Wall
The open quarried wall with a series of small aretes and delicate features.
1. Pinterest (5) * the very pleasant arete.
2. Pins and Needles (6c) the right-hand side of the arete has some insecure moves.
3. Pinto (6b) the flat face above the ledge proves quite technical
4. Pino (5+) the pleasant shallow groove
5. Pinstripe (6a) a short route with a fingery finale
6. Pin Job(6b) * the vague arete with a technical wall.
7. Pinheads (6b) * the best route on this wall up the centre of the face
8. Pintail (5+) the right-hand arete with a short finishing wall.
9. Unpinned (6a) a short technical wall on the right
Lower Tier -Moss Slab
Obvious by name with a small low-level cave off to the right
1. Moss Edge (6b+) an easy start leads to a technical finale
2. Mossover (5) the left-hand of two pleasant slab climbs
3. Pin Slab Classique (5) * the better right-hand line
4. A Rolling Stone Gathers... (5) steep start finishing on a nose
5. Pin Tale (6b) tricky moves above the ledge via an incredible through hole
6. Can't Pin it on Me (6b) the technical corner line
7. Pin Job (6c) the arete is very worthwhile.
The Upper Tier
Gained by an obvious track at a higher level with a group of nondescript lines.
1. One Year Older (4) difficult to spot and needs lower off karabiner
2. One Year Nearer (5+) the left-hand side of the slabby-looking face.
3. Once a Year (6a) the central line
4. Nine Times Table (6a) the best of the lot hereabouts.
5. The Ministry (6a) the left-hand of three past a ledge
6. The Infamy (6a) the best of the right-hand trio
7. The Industry (6a) the right hand line.