A small and easily accessible crag recently tidied up with the permission of the National Trust. It has a small number of routes which make it an ideal short day crag. The bird ban has now been lifted.
From the village of Butterton, drive directly through the village heading for Wetton Mill. The road descends a very steep hill and immediately at the bottom is a sharp right-hand turn. Take the road through the small ford (you can take the second road and its end double back on yourself) and follow this to a small humpbacked bridge. Park on the far side of this. Cross the dry stream bed beyond the bridge and tackle the hill via the obvious track. If the river is in flood you can hope over the other side of the bridge and up via the same track but in this instance the cliff is likely to be seeping.
1. New Rose (6a+) a short wall at the far left-hand side of the crag, just off the topo.
2. Old Hairbits (6a) obvious flake line exiting left to belay.
3. Smash it Up (7a) * a steep wall lined with good pockets and breaks. Move right to the belay
4. Miyashiro (6c+) a short steep wall leading onto a solid slab and belay. Tough
5. Neat, Neat, Neat (6c) direct start via a tricky lower wall to a ledge
6. Mash it Up (6b+) a steep bouldery start leads to easier climbing above a ledge
7. Rub it Out (6a+) * the pleasantly sustained pillar/wall. Good moves, nothing too tricky.
8. It rubbed off on Me (6a) * long easier route finishing via a groove. Still a little dusty
9. Feel the Pain (6b) the front face of the big flake and the face above.
10. Never Rub Another Man's Rhubarb (6c+) * an excellent little wall with a tough and fingery crux on hidden holds. Just merits the grade.
11. Stiltskin Rub (7a+) * an even steeper wall starting in a small alcove and with sustained moves on excellent rock
12. Manifold Exhaust (7c) * the diagonal crackline is relatively short but packs a mean punch.
13. No Pain, No Gain (7c) * desperately bouldery moves through the impressive bulge.
15. Rain Games E5 6b * the crackline leading out above the cave with the obvious dangling slings in it.
16. Hang (4.)5 (6c) * steep crack and leftwards trending ramp on big jugs after a meaty start.