This is the section of cliff between Papacy Buttress and the Dark side and is easily characterized by Nidge’s calling card high on the cliff.
1. What's the Paint? (5) left-hand line with hardest moves low down.
2. Pity the Graffiti (5) pleasant long rib with steep pull through initial bulge.
3. Set Fred Free (6a) the left-hand line from the high platform gives pleasant climbing to a steep finale.
4. Wilky's Revenge (5+) * the central line from the platform gives a very pleasant wall climb.
5. Making Plans for Nidge (6b) * takes a line through the left-hand side of the alcove and past Nidge himself.
6. Helzapoppin' (7a) ** a superb stamina exercise through the centre of the alcove. Doesn't let up.
7. Right Said Fred (6b) climbs through the right-hand side of the roof on big holds and layaways.
8. Coyote Club (6a) takes the left-hand side of the low wall and can be used to gain routes 6 and 7.