|Peak District||Chee Dale||Clwyd Limestone||S.Wales Sandstone||S.Wales Limestone||The Gower||Ban-Y-Gor|
This is the west facing wall sat a higher level 10m to the right of Goddards Corner and the right-hand side of the Main Wall Area. It is reached by scrambling up the slope to its right and traversing back across the blocky terrace to its foot.
The corner around to the left is Boy Better Know (6a) *
1. Weasel Assassin (7a+) technical and fingery face climbing on small holds on the left side of the wall.
2. Psycho Squirrel (7b) the harder right-hand line, particularly so around the overlaps at 8m.
3. Stoatily Obvious (6b+) leftwards line from blocky start via corner and tricky finish above slab
4. Weasily Identifiable (6b+) the right-hand line starting the same. Pity about the start.
Around to the right is a gully which can be gained by a careful scramble:
Unnamed (6a+) is the offwidth crack, Billy Bunter (5) is the slab, unnamed (6b) is the left-hand side of the rib and Unnamed (6a) * is the right-hand side of the rib
Right again in the trees is a small wall:
Niggestone (6a+) is the front of the buttress with a right-hand variant Knuckle Fucker (6a), the diagonal line is Unnamed (6a) *, Unnamed (5+) is the cracks and the slim pillar is Unnamed (6c)
The back left-hand corner of the quarry on an arete are: Unnamed (6b), the featured right-hand face is Unnamed (6a+). Right again is a Project with a very hard start and right again is Unnamed (6a)
This wall is situated further into the quarry. Turn right past the initial wall and walk past the impressive (and collapsing) walls before following a grassy bank leftwards to the face. Easy to find. 5 minutes.
On the far left of this wall is an isolated route with a testing first 10m: Fingers Away (6b).
1. Crozzles Away (6b) tricky start then peculiar calcite tumps.
2. Pebbles Away (6b) tricky thick crack moving rightwards to second crack. Direct finish (6b+)
2a. Name not Known (5) an awful route on the right edge of the wall.
3. Unbroken (7b) shallow groove moving leftwards to desperate boulder problem finale. Harder since loss of crucial crimp.
3a. Name not Known (6b+) * excellent climbing via the blunt rib and short wall. Good
4. Careless Tooth (6c) * leftwards from ledge to technical and fingery wall.
5. Not to be Drunken Away (7a+) straight up wall with hideous move at overlap.
6. Heir Pit (6c+) * easy start over blocks then fine technical face and overlap.
7. The Bit Man (7a) block to ledge then technical lower wall.
8. Big Hare (6c+) fingery wall above large block. Worthwhile.
9. Debrilliant (6c) * good climbing leftwards and then up the centre of the wall. Sustained
10. Careless Talc (6b+) * good climbing straight up the right-hand side of the wall. Hard finish.
Further right is an arete. Mup me (5+) climbs the groove on its left and Strong Like Horse (6a) is the arete. Right again in a bay is Tree Twister (6a+) *.
A further 50m to the right is a compact calcite wall.
Dendrophilia (6b+) * climbs a flowstone pillar, Eticlac (6b) left-hand line on the next calcite wall and Underclac (6b) right-hand line.
Further right are:
Style Scott (6b) * left arete and left side of wall, Flabba Holt (6a) right arete and right side of wall, Junjo Lawes (6a+) the steep flowstone crack