Peak District Chee Dale Clwyd Limestone S.Wales Sandstone S.Wales Limestone The Gower Ban-Y-Gor

Garage Buttress – Stoney Middleton

Paul Harrison on Lowlands, Garage Buttress.

Paul Harrison on Lowlands (6c+) Garage Buttress, Stoney Middleton.

Character

Fingery face climbing with bulging walls and overhangs above the main horizontal break. Unlike almost everywhere else at Stoney the routes here don't yet have that glass like finish to them. Sport routes now outnumber trad with over 30 climbs here covering almost every grade from 5+ to 8a+.

Aspect

The crag faces south and gets the most of the sun on a sunny day although belaying at the bottom is cooler from the shade of the trees. It's an open and airy crag that dries quickly after rain.

Approach

When heading westwards on the A623 pass through the village of Stoney Middleton, past the Little India cafe on the right. Just past this on the left side of the road is a good parking area. Walk up the Dale and Garage Buttress is the first accessible cliff, about 150m on the right.