|Peak District||Chee Dale||Clwyd Limestone||S.Wales Sandstone||S.Wales Limestone||The Gower||Ban-Y-Gor|
A new crag has been developed in the quarry opposite to Stoney West. It gives a number of tough wall climbs on generally good rock in a typical quarry setting. There are also a couple of easy sports climbs with lots of rock left for more, should you be willing to be prepared for a lot of hard work.
From the parking place for Stoney West, walk up the small road past a barrier into a small 'loading bay'. Pass the fence and hop over the next fence - this point can also be gained from the public footpath directly below (limited parking) - and into the quarry. The main wall will be seen in the top left-hand corner of the quarry.
No access has been granted so if asked to leave please do so courteously.
2. This is not a Drill (7a) * fine face climb with a central crux on small incut holds
3. Shady Business (6c+ tough face climbing above a ledge
4. I am a Darlek (6c+) a touch fingery start leads to sustained face.
5. The Beast of Darlton (7b) a tough route with a difficult lower half and a very frustrating sequence through the overlaps.
6. The Who? (7a) another touch lower wall with sustained moves to a hard finishing move onto a ledge.
7. Tean Dream (7a+) good sustained face to a mean overlap.
8. Blue View (6c+) the vague blunt arete has a suprisingly tough sequence of moves.
9. The Knew (6c+) * the thin crackline with good moves and a hard finishing move to the belay.
10. The Grey (7a+) * the excellent balnk-looking face to the right. High steps, crossovers and rockovers.
The easier routes lie on the walls on the right-hand side of the quarry. The leftmost route is alongisde an impressive 'plank' bolted to the cliff: Still Game (5+) *. further to the right is a long slim groove: Darlton Slab VS 4c takes the pleasant slabby face left of this and Bucket List (5+) takes the faint leftwards trending line around to the right.