Peak District Chee Dale Clwyd Limestone S.Wales Sandstone S.Wales Limestone The Gower Ban-Y-Gor

Amistad Walls

The back wall has a very impressive profile littered with crack and groove lines. Towards its right-hand side this wall reduces in height below an impressive black shield of rock. The area from here leftwards is known as the Amistad Walls.

1. Weasel Words HVS 5a * a good long route taking the obvious crackline leading to the prominent right-facing corner. Exit left from this and up via the grey headwall.

2. Living the Dream E5 6b * climb the smooth looking left wall of the corner by superb technical moves, 3BRs, stepping slightly left at the break. Continue on the upper wall slightly rightwards via breaks and a thin crack, PR, to a ledge. Finish up the easier crack above.

3. No Logo 28m E1 5a about 25m to the left is an arete. Climb a short wall to its left then cross a slab to the corner. Follow this until it is possible to swing right onto the arete, which is followed to the top.

4. More Loco than Cocoa E3 5c from the base of the long slim corner climb the right wall to the base of the corner. Climb the corner and make a wild swing right and then up onto the wall, PR. Climb the wall above via a thin crackline, good wire protection, to a ledge. Finish via the blunt rib to the right exiting slightly leftwards.

5. LocoMotion (6a) the obvious crackline with a ledge at half height.

6. The Sound of Music (6c) * short but worthwhile with a fingery start.

7. Music to my Ears (7a) * the prominent pillar to a half-height lower off gives a steep fingery exercise at its conclusion.

8. Harmony in my Head E5 6b *** the impressive face left of Big Moose. Hard technical face climbing low down leads past 4PRs to a respite, small wires, and small ledge above. The front face of the tower is climbed by an easier thin crack and excellent headwall.

9. Big Moose 25m E1 5b ** the tower at the bottom of the slope. Start at an obvious steep crack leading from the top of a slight corner. Continue up the centre of the front face of the tower in a fine position.

10. Elkasaltsa E4 6a * thin crack with a difficult start leads to a vague upper arete on good holds.

11. Rat in a Bucket 18m E1 5b climb the front of the short wall past flowstone to the ledge. Continue up the crack system above.

12. Slave 16m E2 5b * to the left is a short corner leading to a ledge. With side runners in the crackline, make committing moves rightwards, PR, and continue diagonally right to the break. Either move back left to follow the crack to the top or, better, pull directly through the overlap onto the short headwall. Superb, bold and high in the grade.

13. Amistad E5 6a ** the centre of the fine black wall to the left with fingery moves low down and boldish but easier climbing above. 2 PRs. Photo.

14. You're Pushing a Broom 15m VS 4b the wide crack to an obvious sentry box. Finish with care through the right-hand side of the roof.

15. Girl Drink Drunk 15m E1 5b *the cracked wall left of the corner finishing direct at the top when the cracks run out. Excellent climbing but a bit of an eliminate.

16. Welcome to my Drains 14m VS the corner/crackline at the top of the slope.