Peak District Chee Dale Clwyd Limestone S.Wales Sandstone S.Wales Limestone The Gower Ban-Y-Gor

Caretaker Quarry

Andy Birtwistle sampling the delights of El Sergio.

This is the series of walls right of the arch walls and recognizable by their orange nature and crackline towards their right-hand side. At their left-hand side is a prominent runnel/tube towards the top of the cliff which gives a unique pitch via a prominent runnel high up. Photo of Wall

The first three routes begin at a higher level on the level, in situ rope providing access.

1. Impartial Sauce (6b) steep entry into a bottomless groove exiting right below the roof.

2. Partial to Sauce (6c) a direct assault of the prominent rib gives fine climbing with short difficulties

3. Ketchup (6b) the bulge and thin crackline to the right. Move left and up to the belay.

4. Up a Gum Tree (6b) the left-hand and shortest route via a groove, overlap, short wall and slab.

5. Over the limit on Wine Gums (6c+) the vague thin crack, layaway edge with hard moves passing the bulge. The groove and rib are easier.

6. Going Full Boar (6c+) * a taxing little pitch starting to the left of the main runnel. Climb via a groove and overlap and steep wall to a black slab.

7. Dumbfounded (6b) a direct line up the slabby wall and through the impressive roof to join Finding Neverland.

8. Finding Neverland (6a+) * take the obvious easy start and after the sixth bolt step left, up via a slab to a roof, over on the right and up the prominent fluted line

9. El Sergio (6a) ** the superb runnel gained via some easy ledges, a slabby wall and overlap and gives a fine climb destined for classic status. A tad dusty.

10. Add the Advil (6b) ** Another long line right again via an open slab, short steep wall and avoiding the overlap on the right. Again excellent.

11. Twelve O'clock Nick (5+) the easier right-hand line of four via cleaned ledges and s alb to a steep cracked white wall.

12. Nick'r'Las (4) the pleasant small arete on the right.