Well you may have thought that the Gower sports-climbing section was complete but in reality it had to include this excellent little wall the majority of development upon which took place in the 80s.
Originally discovered by Jeremy Talbot and use for aid practice the cliff was realised for its true potential by Andy Sharp in the early Eighties who freed a number of the original routes and added a few of his own. Developments have been sporadic since namely from Tony Forster and Roy Thomas.
What’s the climbing like?
Steep, technical and fingery face climbing abounds on the harder routes. There are a few cracks thrown in for good measure in the lower end of the ‘E’ spectrum.
When should I go there?
Tucked away under the coastal path from Rhosilli to Worms Head the cliff faces in a south-westerly direction and hence dries very quickly. It is a very pleasant place to climb in the spring and autumn and especially summer evenings but a venue to avoid in hot sunny weather. It can also be useful on still winter days.
A good range but few true sports routes: E2 x 1, E3 x 2, E4 x 2, E5 x 1, 7a x 1, 7b+ x 2.
What are the choice routes?
The Adulteress (E2) provides a good warm up for harder fair to its right. The classic line of Crime and Punishment (E5) is a must as are Blackman’s Pinch (E4) and the superb and unremitting Skull Attack (7b+). For total all-out boulder problems try Black Wall (7b+).
Anything left for me?
In a word, no. They’ve even beaten you to the girdle!