Situated about 200m further on than Black Wall right, this bay of rock
is easily reached by the obvious fisherman's path: it lies about 200m before
the building atop the cliffs. It has a handful of good little routes.
1. Devil May Care (6c+) the left wall via
some very long moves.
2. Transgressor's Groove (5) the slabby corner
has a short tricky section
3. Butcher's Slab (6a) the slabby wall with
a tricky finale
4. RepentanceArete (6b+) the right-hand side
of the arete gained from the corner on the right
5. Stepped Corner (6b) just that and awkward
6. Sin Bin (6b) the arete, mantelshelf and
face with a long reach to the belay
Scintillate (6a+) the obvious flake to join
Sin Bin at the ledge.
Forgiveness (6b) huge clacite crystal lead
to a steep flake and joining Sin Bin after roof.
Confessor (6b) the pillar/arete to a horrible finish
Sin fear (4+) Corner crack, nice bridging.
Belay can be gained WITHOUT USE OF LARGE JAMMED BLOCKS IN CHIMNEY.
8. Sinbad (6b) the stepped roof with a balancy
section on the slab
9. Sinus (6b) another of the same with a
10. Synthesizer Slab (6b) * the lovely delicate
Devilment (4) Short arete leading to pleasant
11. For ye who has sinned.... (6c) left-hand
side of the lower wall with a hard move to finish
The Seven Deadly Sins (6c+) * line between
the two after first bolt of Wages. Use belay on left.
12. Wages of Sin (6c+) * short intense wall
with two difficult sections.
13. The Sinner Man (7b) a desperate sequence
on small slots and a rounded finale. Harder for the short.
Around the corner and up the slopes from Sinners Walls.
Blow Me Down (thar)(6b+) the first line on the wall with
a high (stick-clip) first bolt
Tha'r She Blows (6b+) * a steep start in the centre of the wall to
a central shared belay. Low in the grade.
The Fat Lady Wall
Situated above the jumble of large boulders up and left of Carbon Slab. There
is a steep fisherman's descent close to the coastguard hut leading to its
Chubby Loving (6a) the left side of the wall. Staple belay on the
Plumper Romp (6b+) wall to right with a tricky finish to a shared
Bosom Pals (6b+) a high first bolt to a single bolt belay so share
Butterball (5+) * left of earthy chimney to a belay on the arete.
It's Not All Over (5+) right of chimney then share belay 1m to left.
Two hundred metres further along the coastline at
much the same level is this excellent, boilerplate slab.
Waiting for the Fat Lady's Thong (5) left
of the arete starting up a short corner.
Carbonate (6a+) the obvious arete on the
left-hand side of the slab has good line but needs traffic.
1. Carboniferous (4+) left-hand side of the
slab with a tricky move to reach the belay
2. Carbon Copy (6b) * very pleasant climbing
to the right
3. Carbon Dating (6b+) * slightly harder
to the right
4. Carbon Era (6b) * more of the same right
5. Carbon Times (6b) line above two grassy
6. Carbon Light (4) an easy trip on the
right-hand side of the slab.