Situated on the western side of Pwlldu Bay to the south of Oxwich Bay, this extensive cliff has a small selection of very worthwhile pitches which compliment those already included in the sports climbing of the Gower. Almost the sole preserve of Martin Crocker and Roy Thomas, this cliff has now achieved maximum potential due to a restrictive access agreement but is well worth a visit, especially since it boasted the first 8a on the Gower (now down to 7c+).
The cliff is obvious once the wonderful beach at the centre of the bay has been reached. Due to restricted parking this makes life a little difficult but also gives the advantage of making the beach very quiet! Go to it.
What’s the climbing like?
Steep and generally very fingery climbing with sustained interest throughout. Some of the moves can prove a bit ‘slappy’ on the harder routes together with reachy clips but a couple of the older routes have fallen into disrepair: soon to be amended?
When should I go there?
A great little summer crag, Pwlldu Quarry dries out quickly in the spring and remains that way except in torrential rain. The sun goes off the cliff after midday but the local beach and sea should provide tempting reward in the hottest of conditions.
An access agreement has been organized between the landowners and local climbers. Re-bolting is permissible with the agreement of the first ascensionists as is replacement of worn fixed gear on a like for like basis. New routes are permissible.
Nothing particularly easy starting with 6c (1), 7a+ (2), 7b (1), 7b+ (1), 7c+ (1) and some traditional routes: 9 routes in total.
Which are the choice route?
All of the sports routes, from left to right these being Forty for Three (7b *), Sensor Part 1 (7b+ **) and Sensor (7c+ ***), Jezebel (7a+ **) and Crock Block (6c *). There are other routes here worth doing so send for the topo!