1. Dish the Dirt (6b+) * Fingery over the lower bulges then much easier and very pleasant above.
2. Less is More (7a+) ** a complex sequence through the overlaps. Fingery above.
3. More than Enough (7a) ** brilliant sustained climbing throughout. Should become popular
4. More, More, More (7a+) ** very overhanging with tough central section.
5. Moreland (7a+) *** brilliant stamina climbing via hanging corner. Low in grade.
6. Burn after Reading (6c+) ** a very fine pitch, sustained and excellent to the top.
7. Morfa, Morfa, Morfa (7a) * a draining sequence through the lower bulge leads to easier and pleasantly sustained climbing
8. Listing Badly (7a) * the first technical section is superb and the roof again difficult
9. Wreckage (7a+) * a very difficult start with a very powerful finale.
10. She's Slipping Away (6c+) ** a difficult overhang start leads to fine climbing with a sting in the tail.
11. Credit Squeeze (6b) ** the left-hand branch with perhaps even better climbing
12. The Pinch is On (6c+) direct with hard finale.
13. Selling Short (6b) ** the short sharp groove exiting rightwards across the wall to give fine climbing
14. Tidal Rush (6c) ** Superb varied route through up the technical wall
15. Asset Manager (6b+) **The technical wall to the left of a shallow groove with fine technical climbing from the start
16, Heading South (5) Long shallow groove with pleasant climbing throughout.
17. Insider Dealer (6c) Wall to its right with desperate moves over the overlap at the top.
18. Bull Market (6a) Shallow groove system which proves hardest at the top.
19. Crash and Dash (5+) A short exercise on the small walls above the ledge to the right
20. Pump and Dump (6a+) A hard sequence to the right
21. Toxic Assets(4) short wall
22. Green Shoots of Recovery (5) finale route utilizing arete
The Sunny Side
Immediately around the seaward end of the cliffs is a large bay with a mixture of sports routes and traditional routes scattered across the faces with a large zawn in its centre, Zero Zawn. These are described in order until photographic content comes available.
The Golden String (5+) * tackes an enclosed corner and then the pillar on the right: Noah's Arse (5) clibms the easy wall moving right where it steepens: Knee Jerk (6a) gain a ledge with a horrible move above: Lucas Numbers (6c) * takes a tricky groove on the left of a prominent arete and the roof above: Bonacci's Sequence (7b) * a steep line on hangers: All about Nothing (6a) ** a short crack, undercut flake via a juggy break to final roof: Get out Claws (2) a staircase leading to a finish off right: Zero Inclination (6a+) * a rib and Vee groove above a ledge: Recurring Nightmare (5) a short stapled wall to a shared belay: A Question of Rabbits (6b+)* starts on the left of an arete moving into the centre of the wall to join other lines at ledge: My Slice of Pie (6a) the arete finishing at an impressive lower-off: Sad Little Number HVS 5a a short thin crack stepping left into the previous route: Off at a Tangent (6b) short wall right of the thin crack: Smart Keas (6a) the narrow side wall and arete: Daft Nutter HVS 5b * obvious narrow crack in the pillar: You Sane Bolter (6a+) * right side of pillar: Bolus Feed (6b) ** the hanging pillar.
The obvious zawn starting on its left wall.
Nil by Mouth (6a) * a deceptively tricky start and finish: Continued Nursing Care (6a+) short lived difficulties: P.E.G.Feed (5+) groove right again: A Quest for the Originas of the Place Holder Notation (6b+) *** tough climbing above a barnacled entry groove which can be gained from the right: Disraeli's Curl (7a) ** the groove line right again: Kitchener's Nabla (7a+) ** the central line: Turing's Sum (6c+) ** the next line: Blank Dark Thirty (6b) **the hanging, shelved groove; Joy's of a Tethered Goat (6b) ** start via pockets then move left via big bolts to join last route: The Central Integrator (6b) ** groove at entrance to right of the zawn:Dismal Differentiator (6a+) * tricky layback then easy: Napier's Bones (6a) * short pillar on right side of wall.
The walls to the right in a more sunny setting.
Cinder's Shall not get to the Ball HS the cracks exiting on the right: Del Boy Dallies with the Trolls VD the obvious diagonal crack: Post Code Lottery HS 4b the easy rib and steeper wall: Troll Hop easy scrambling to the right.
The Dark Side
A new section of crag around to the right and beyond the tidal access point. This can be gained at low tide roughly two hours either side of low tide either from Morfa Bychan or Pendine Sands. There is another excellent section of cliff in between with a number of good routes soon to be displayed here. Please respect any routes identified as projects as a lot of effort has gone into preparing these.
1. Straight as a Dai (6b) * excellent rock and fine climbing on the compact wall.
2. Central Deviator (6b) * another excellent route
4. Before Planck's Time (7a+) ** shallow seem/groove to the right. High in grade?
7. Seven Thirty at Arras (7b) ** diagonal line starting via arete to finish direct on Badger's Out.
8. Quantum of Lydon's Future (7a+) ** undercut moves lead to an awkward crux and big holds though the overlaps.
9. Badger's Out (7a+) ** starts via the hanging chimney through the overlap to follow a faint weakness above.
10. Vera Figner's Lost List (7a+) ** starts up the chimney before undercutting the overlap left into the centre of the face.
11. Jackie Fisher's Phobia (6c+) *** a direct assault of the overhangs above the chimney.
Table Scraps (6a) climbs off the blocks before moving back right to belay. New belay to be added up and to the left.
1. Give the Dog a Bone (5) arete starting just right of block. Belay over to right.
2. Salty Dog (5+) shallow groove, slab and steep finale.
3. Bitch (6b) shallow groove and leaning wall on jugs.
4. Snuffle Hound (6b+) * peculiar pitch via the obvious vee niche. Good climbing.
5. Unleashed (6a+) a direct line via a Vee groove/niche.
6. 3D Dog (6a+) another worthwhile pitch via the right-hand scoop and left of the slim corner.
7. Soapy Dahl (6b) * the long slim corner line. Very unusual.
8. Man Machine (6c) the right-hand groove with a bouldery crux.
9. Sophie's Wit Tank (6b+) ** a superb little climb despite the name up the centre of the fine wall.
15. Mary Hinge's Close Shave (6b) * fine climbing via a faint groove on a brown streak.
16. Nothing in it (6b) * groove line left of the arete.
17. McGoohan Loses Six (6c+) * the hanging arete.
18. The Amount of Fun to be had by a Bear with a Broken Baculum (6a) * the wall right of the arete.