Peak District Chee Dale Clwyd Limestone S.Wales Sandstone S.Wales Limestone The Gower Ban-Y-Gor

Craig Arthur – Golden Dawn Buttress

1. Scrapyard Thing (E1 5a, 5a) a poor route up the left-hand side of the buttress

  1. 20m start via a loose flake crack and continue via the wall above to a belay below an overlap.
  2. 12m pass the overhang to its left to reach a ledge and finish via the chimney on the right.

Uncrossed (7a+) * direct line via rib to ledge. Hard bulge and face above provides the spice.

2. Double Crossbones (E3 5c, 5a, 5a) * Another wandering climb with a fine first pitch.

  1. 12m Up via the obvious gray wall past a peg runner to a belay below an overhang.
  2. 12m tackle the overhang and corner to a ledge belay.
  3. Move back right and continue up the corner to reach an overhang. Pass this to the right and move right to finish via a broken exit corner

3. Those Stumbling Words (7a) * a good direct line through two overlaps with a superb finale on the headwall after a hard, boulder-problem start which can be avoided on the left.

4. Delaware Slide (E4 6a) ** A fine pitch taking the left-hand side of the barrel-shaped wall following a vague rib. Escalating difficulties to a tricky finish on the line of some old BRs

5. These Foolish Things (7a+) *** a superb sustained exercise up the centre of the wall beginning on the obvious ramp line and following a system of scoops and bulges to finish on the headwall with a final crux flourish.

6. Gates of the Golden Dawn (E5 5b, 6b) ** a two pitch route taking the vague rib in the centre of the buttress, PRs, and the final overhang by a short bouldery and difficult sequence.

7. Sunny Side Up Mix (7b) *** Begins from a slightly level. A magnificent pitch taking the right-hand side of the rib via sustained moves to finish via the final jutting prow. Memorable.

8. Black Poppies (7b+) ** the vague depression to the right with a series of taxing moves (short-lived) to gain easier ground. The final roof is taken via an impressive crack.

9. Chilean Moon (7b) * Another sustained little affair with a hard section low down through the initial roof to easier climbing and a difficult finale over the roof.

10. Acapulco (7a+) * Another taxing route with a difficult section low down and easier climbing above.

11. Chills of Apprehension (E4 6a) * The rightward trending weakness, PRs, with difficulty, then head up he wall to the wide finishing crack.

12. Jam Spread (6b+) short difficult bulge, shallow groove and short wall.

13. Lemon Kerred (6c+) A short test piece on the final rounded buttress.

14.Freshly Dug (6a) pleasant face on fringe of wall.