Peak District Chee Dale Clwyd Limestone S.Wales Sandstone S.Wales Limestone The Gower Ban-Y-Gor

Craig Arthur – Nemesis Wall

1. Charlotte's Web (6a+) a good little climb taking the blunt rib of the shallow groove.

2. Now and Then E2 5b, 5a Slight better climbing. 1. 21m Fine climbing up the slim white groove leads past 2PRs to a small overlap. Pull over this, PR, to gain better holds leading to a tree belay. 2. 12m Finish as for Charlain.

3. Crocodile Shoes (6b+) * a surprising find up the smooth-looking wall right of Now and Then. Good.

4. Dead Man's Creek (6c) * Getting better. Gain and climb the obvious flake in the wall to the right until moves slightly rightwards and up gain a PR. Continue direct past a jammed wire until a step right leads to the BB.

5. Punch and Judy (E5 6b) *** A true technical classic, probably more like 7a+. Start 8m right of Now and The. Gain a flake and cross the difficult bulge to gain a break. Stand up and traverse delicately right to reach a shallow groove which eases in difficult for the lower-off to be gained. Plenty of fixed gear.

6. Full Mental Jacket (E5 6c) * A hard eliminate based around Punch and Judy. Starting 5m further right, cross a flaky bulge onto a small ledge, then step left and up past BRs to reach a break. Stand up and move slightly left to follow a faint groove to reach goods holds. Move slightly left again, then straight up to the belay. Fixed gear.

7. Survival of the Fastest (E5 6a) *** A classic of the early eighties with sustained difficulties on a fine line. From the start of Full Mental Jacket, pull rightwards through the bulge to reach the crackline, PR. Climb this, gradually increasing in difficulty to a slight bulge, PRs. Cross this leftwards past a BR with a hard move, and move up to a break, PR. Finish via a slab and straightforward crackline.

8. Survival of the Fattest (E5 6b) A hard crux section with easier climbing above and below. Starting 5m right of Survival of the Fastest, cross an awkward bulge to gain a series of small flakes leading to a bulge at 20m. Hard moves through this gain an overlap and a finishing crack to its left.

9. Revival of the Latest (7a) * a short desperate wall pitch with a hard lower section and a fingery and technical upper.

10. Friday the Thirteenth (E5 6a, 5c) *** Start below the obvious long gray streak at the left-hand side of the wall, just right of a small tree. 1. 25m Gain a short groove and step left. Now trend rightwards to a detached flake, PR on the right. Now continue direct to the break. 2. 18m Follow the obvious groove on the left, PRs, moving right over the capping roof to a final wall.

11. Oblivion (E6 6b)** direct assault on walls through Friday starting and finishing as for Manic. Returned to its original state. Two ropes advisable as gear under the roof at the top is useful.

12. Manic Mechanic (E6 6b) *** Superb and impressive in one big pitch. Start 3m right of the tree. Climb direct up the black streak, BR, to reach a ramp. From the top of this trend rightwards, PR, into a depression, BR. Pull through the bulge, PR to gain the break and continue up to the second break. Move left up the wall, TR, to reach the roof and pull leftwards through it, PR, to good holds and the top.

13. Relentless (7b+) *** a very fine new addition straight up the centre of the wall utilising a high hanging arete and super overlap finale. Very sustained but with two good rest spots.

14. Smokin' Gun E6 6c, 6a *** A superb first pitch. Start in the centre of the wall below a shallow hanging groove. 1. 21m Climb easily leftwards into the groove and climb this, BRs, moving right with difficulty onto the vague arete, where slightly easier climbing leads up the wall to a flake. Move rightwards, PR, into a scoop, BR. Step back left onto the wall and up to the break. 2. 18m Move up into a niche, then traverse right around a nose, PRs, onto a smooth-looking wall and hanging slab. Finish straight up, PRs.

15. Tres Hombres E6 6a, 5c *** Another classic route. Start 8m left of the large tree at the right-hand side of the face, down and left of an obvious ramp. 1. 25m Move up and then back right up onto the ramp, PR. From its top make tricky moves up the wall, PR, to a small bulge. Pass this on the left to reach a scoop, BR, from where a step left leads onto the wall and hard moves up gain the break crossing the wall. 2. 18m Move left into a steep groove and follow it, PR, to the roof. Move right over this and finish via the juggy headwall.

16. Mercury Rising (7b+) **a super direct plum up the wall with a hard technical groove to start, a reachy move off Tres Hombres and a tough final. A good no-hands rest is offered at half-height!

17 Steppin' Razor (E6 6b) ** More fine climbing. Start in the tree at the right-hand end of the wall. From part way up the tree swing out left, PR and BR to the left end of a slim roof. Pull through this to reach some flakes and pass an old PR to reach a groove and second roof, PR. Pass this on the right, PR, onto a hanging slab and climb a difficult wall, PR, to finish.

18. Marie Antoinette (E5 6b) * Squeezed onto the limit of the wall with some good moves. From a ledge behind the tree, move right and up the blunt arete, BR and PR. Pass a second BR to reach the break from where an excellent series of moves lead up the striking finger crack to reach a roof, PRs. Battle through this via a notch, PR, to finish.

19. The Big Plop (E3 5b, 6a) The prominent hanging groove at the top right-hand side of the wall. Start 5m right of the large tree. 1. 21m Climb the wall from the tree slightly leftwards via a shattered crack and more trees to a ledge. Climb the steeper wall above, PR, to a small ledge left of a bush. 2. 15m Enter the groove from the right and climb it, PRs, to the big roof. Swing right to the arete and finish more easily over loose ground.

20. Black and Blue (7a+) ** a super discovery climbing the bald-looking wall to the right of the Big Plop by some fine technical moves and the impressive snout above, leftwards via a hanging groove.

To the right are three smaller sports routes, easily identified by their BRs.

21, Tranche de Vie (6a+) * a direct line up the left-hand side of the face with a technical short wall above the bulge.

22. Voie de Bart (E4 6b) Gain a ramp to reach a bulge and a difficult sequence through it to the lower-off.

23. Rubberbandman (7a+) * The wall to the right via an overlap and short difficult ramp

24. Finger Press (6c) short boulder problem move finishing over bulge

25. Thumbs Down (6c+) direct line via hard moves in shallow scoop and starting via flake.

26. Under my Thumb (6c+) * The best of the three. The fine gray wall on the right via a series of tricky moves at half height.

27. Let's See Those Fingers (6c) * technical start and overlapping finale.

28. All Fingers and Thumbs (6c) easier lower wall and very tricky bulge.

29. Thumb Print (6a) a good little warm up straight up to the obvious pillar.