This has to be the most esoteric part of Ban-y-Gor yet still has a few worthwhile pitches. Take care when crossing ‘the terrace’ and take even more care when belaying. A falling leader could unhinge the most alert of belayers.
It can be gained in two ways: Either climb the lower section of Perfect kiss and traverse left to a large ledge complete with cave or, alternatively, walk left below the crag and as the path rises gain the terrace below the face and walk back right to gain the routes.
1. Slave to the Cave E2 6a groove above small cave from right. BR, TRs
2. Some Chance E3 5c steep wall left of cave
3. What Presence E4 6b very technical moves past a BR on the wall to the left
4. No Chance E2 6a technical tiny groove
5. Some Chance (6c+) another desperate sequence.
The next two routes begin on the ledge at a lower level. This can be gained by descending carefully down or using one of the many trees as an abseil point.
6. Sausage Dog E3 5c pleasant via the shallow groove and crackline, PR
7. Pocket Tarantula E2 5c again pleasant climbing to the left.
The terrace to the left is a little awkward to gain from the right except by a careful traverse. From the left is easier.
8. Goebbals, Mosley, God and Ingrams E4 5c serious start from behind tree. Take a belay!
9. There You Go Again (6c+) * immaculate little wall.
10. Snake Flake E2 5c crux finish rightwards
11. Free the Radicals E3 5b short, unpleasant and serious scoop
12. Mouchette E3 6a strong arm tactics over the bulge.
Welcome to the end of the crag!