|Peak District||Chee Dale||Clwyd Limestone||S.Wales Sandstone||S.Wales Limestone||The Gower||Ban-Y-Gor|
Sports Climbs UK
Welcome to the web pages of Sportsclimbs UK, a site designed for support to sports-climbing in England and Wales.
For those from further afield it is also intended to provide information to sports-climbing in the Peak and South Wales areas, together with photographs, maps and general crag information to tempt climbers into sampling some of the more 'backwater' cliffs of Britain.
This site is one for information purposes only. The inclusion of a crag or a route on this site does not imply that you have the right to climb there. Descriptions of climbs and sites are recorded for historical purposes only. Great effort has gone into this site to ensure that grades and descriptions are correct, but as always, climbers must use judgment to ensure that difficulties are within their capabilities and accept the consequence of their decision. This site is in no way an attempt to encourage climbers to climb on the cliffs described within.
The publisher of this site in no way accepts any responsibility for any errors it may contain, nor are liable for any injuries or damages arising from its use. Climbing is a dangerous pastime.
Ferndale (9.8.18) an excellent new crag in South Wales which has had a resugence of activity.
The Balcony (1.7.18): a small crag in the woods opposite to the Triglyph at Stoney Middleton. Nothing special but some pleasant little face climbs.
Llandarcy (11.5.18): A fine new crag on the sandstone of South Wales with ease of access and numerous excellent routes.
Sister Two and a Half (18.5.18) an excellent find on the Gower with a number of good, though relatively short technical exercises on good rock with an fine outlook.
Ravens Tor (Dovedale) (4.5.18): a superb crag in the northern end of Dovedale now has a handful of good sports routes on its right-hand fringes. Perfect for warm weather.
Ramsgrove Seaward Crag (21.2.18) another fine little venue overlooking a wonderful seaward outlet.
The Chimney (1.9.17) recently renovated with a handful of easier new sports routes and a complete tidying up. Worth visiting.
Independence Quarry (30.8.17) a number of new routes have been aded to this underrated little quarry.
Gilwern Lower (20.7.17) loads of new routes on an easily accessible crag with ease of access. Unfortunately, someone has chosen to fly-tip here which makes the place feel a bit inhospitable.
Wolfscote Dale: newly added with a cleaned-up Drabber Tor and two superb new routes at E2 and E3 respectively. Three new routes on the Left Celestial Twin. Bolt belays added to Drabber Tor making descent more easily achieved.
Silent Walls (19.7.17) another day another crag with a particular gem.
Calcite Bay (18.6.17) another new wall on the upper tier of the Trial Wall area of the Gower, situated 200m beyond Black Crack right and before Sinners Walls.
Sinners Walls (updated 7.5.17) a new crag a little further along the coastline from Trial Wall with a bunch of worthwhile and easily accessible routes.
New Tredegar (10.4.17) a completely new find in the South Wales Valleys with a dozen new routes on good quality, slabby sandstone. Still needs 'wear and tear' (or traffic) but will provide a popular venue.
Llanymynech (16.9.16):Please note that Shropshire Wildlife Trust as land managers of the site have forbidden sports climbing on the Foreigner Walls. The bolt hangers have begun to be slowly removed from the routes and are marked accordingly on the Foreigner Walls pages.
Staden Quarry: a number of new trad routes added and a new area added to the crag.
Cwmcarn: a newly updated crag in South Wales with a number of good routes
Sirhowy (updated 29.5.16) new crag photos and topos added
Staden Lower (updated 28.5.16) newly equipped and cleaned up with a batch of new routes
Abertwssyg (updated 28.5.16) new crag on South Wales sandstone.
Horse Thief Wall (updated 6.5.16) a new quarried wall with ease of access and a good sunny aspect with a handful of reasonable routes
Abbey Buttress (updated 10.4.16): a full clean up with lots of new routes added. New path dug out!
Pinfold Quick Tick Walls (added 28.1.16) an old wall added with all routes.
Llanymynech: (updated 6.10.2015) a superb crag near to Oswestry on the Welsh Borders. Long sport routes, some requiring a 70m rope, an excellent collection of classic trad face climbs. New wall Foreigner's Wall and lots of new routes. Another new wall added at the back of the Quarry with a number of lower grade 6 routes: Bay Wall. New Wall added: Cult Wall.
Garage Buttress (updated 28.1.16) a number of new routes and cleaning up of existing routes amongst the trad routes. Updated with more pitches.
Goddard's Quarry (28.1.16) a completely new wall has been developed as well as a new monster pitch, in the class of Too Monsterosity at Slaley Brook.
Harpur Hill: (updated 28.12.2018) completely updated with two relatively new areas and new routes spread all over the crag: The Racetrack: Pool Wall: The Playground. New regearing on The Dark Side Left and The Dark Side Right and The Sanctuary
Dalton Quarry: (updated 6.10.15) a new quarry opposite Stoney West with a batch of difficult mid range sports climbs.
Pin Dale Quarry: (updated 6.10.15) another new quarry with a number of easier grade sports route.
Golden Wall (20.3.15) new wall in the Stoney valley. Six routes with easy access.
The Retreat (20.6.14) A new bay with a number of short intense pitches and a few longer ones. New Crag at Harpur Hill
Stoney West (20.06.14) another fine 7a pitch added.
Majorca Buttress (added on 17.05.2014) 14 bouldery little routes from 6b to 7a+ in Water Cum Jolly.
Cawdor Quarry: (updated 9.7.2013) a new find in the Matlock area. Loads of route in the mid 6s through to a few harder offerings. Faces east and gets no sun but only 2 mins from the car. Porn walls regeared
Long Tor Quarry Right-Hand: (16.6.2013) a newly developed section of crag with a number of worthwhile and very easily accessible routes in the grade 6 region.
Craig Arthur (updated 9.9..2012): undoubtedly the finest of the crags in the Llangollen chain. Big and impressive with loads of superb trad. Routes and a small selection of quality sports route.
Smalldale: (updated 12.8.12) a superb venue with a varied selection of routes on quarried walls. Originally mostly in the 7s grade but now with a wealth of easiest routes in the low 6s on the Outlying Walls. All have good length but this is not a winter venue - great for a summer evening. All now regeared save for a few on the Crystal Maze Wall.
Ban Y Gor: (updated 28.5.2012) Whole crag completely updated with a number of new routes and regearings.
Crag X (updated 3.4.12) seven new routes added and whole crag recleaned and most routes regeared. Good climbing on excellent quality natural rock. Completely regeared
Compact Walls/Independence Quarry: A whole new set of routes along the Clwyd limestone escarpment, mostly in the lower sports grades with easy access. All new photo topos.
Staden Quarry: (20.6.2010) new walls and loads of new routes the popular Peak traditional venue with loads of excellent face routes on the best quality quarried limestone.
Masson Lees (Updated 4.9.2010) this superb find of 2004 has now reached full maturity and is now completely dry. Give it a try, you know it makes sense.
The Ravine (updated 11.6.11) a relatively small venue with ease of access and a handful of worthwhile routes.
Pwlldu Bay: (updated 13.5.2010) Newly updated with a plethora of new routes. A truly idyllic setting straight from a magnificent beach. In the shade after midday.
Dinbren:completely updated, a superb quiet venue with a wealth of routes, some sports some trad . New routes from 2010 included.
Cowdale (updated 27.4.2010) completely cleaned up and regeared where necessary with stainless gear. 10 new routes of easier grades from 6a to 6c.
Watch House Crag: (14.7.09) a super little slabby venue tucked into the bays to the west of Fox Hole.
Watch House East: (14.7.09) a handful of excellent routes on a steep leaning wall. The perfect compliment to Fox Hole and Watch House crag.
Dinas Rock: (updated 13.7.09) has had a major clean up and most of the routes regeared where necessary. The Roadside Crag has loads of easier grade sport routes and the Main Wall is as good as any face in South Wales. There are also some new routes being added all over the cliff.
Taffs Well Main:(updated 9.4.09) as predicted some rebolting and the production of a number of new routes is making this an easy-accessible and popular crag.
Tirpentwys (4.5.2009) another excellent little venue with a number of good quality routes with plenty in the lower sports climbing grade.
Gilwern (18.8.2008) a super new crag on the Head's of the Valley road with superb rock, views and climbing.
Long Tor Quarry: (23.5.2008) the old quarry in Matlock has received a big makeover care of two local climbers and has a number of excellent new routes together with the old ones being tidied up.
Dyfryn (updated 18.10.08) a super new crag on South Wales Sandstone. Topos to be updated shortly.
Turkey Dip Rocks (27.7.07) another crag to be recently updated in the bad weather. Steep and very overhanging with a handful of quality hard routes.
Horseshoe Quarry:(updated 3.4.2012) completely updated with new crag drawings and a complete update on 32 new routes since the guides.
The Gap (updated 24.9.07) newly updated with a number of new routes and diagrams.
Devil's Gorge: an impressive hole in the ground containing a classic of North Wales limestone and a number of less frequented slab routes. Condition defendant.
Due out in the next couple of weeks, you can pre-order your copies at:
I will also be doing promotional events at:
Outside, Hathersage 13th June 7.30pm
The Unit, Derby 14th June 6.30pm (no talk)
Newport Rock, Newport 19th June 6.30pm
Gary Gibson on the first ascent of 4000, Stoney Middleton. Photo Mick Ryan
Simon Rice on an early repeat of Flipperty
Flop Moss Rake crag. Photo; Gary Gibson
Gary Gibson on The Thief of Mad Dad
(6b+), Horse Thief Quarry. Photo Nick
Giants (6c), on Plum Buttress in Cheedale.
Hazel Gibson on the third ascent of Rub it Out; Photo Andy Birtwistle
Mark Richardson on Seventh Time Lucky (7b), Masson Lees. Photo: Ian Milward
Ian Carr on Swain's World, Harpur Hill
If you would like to contribute to my bolt fund with the intention of renewing old fixed gear on many of the crags on my web site please feel free to do so via the Paypal link below
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Try the excellent on-line climbing shop that is Holdbreaker. Boots, harnesses, ropes, gear: everything the climber needs. www.holdbreaker.com
Take a look into my brother's field of art. Superb illustrative
art alongside other more traditional mediums.
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